Roadtrip Alberta and British Columbia

1 september 2015 - Calgary, Canada

West-Canada, for so long one of my bucket list destinations. In 2015 it became reality and I booked a selfdrive from Calgary to Vancouver to discover the wonderful nature in the many famous National Parks in the provinces Alberta and British Columbia. I started my trip with the expectation of at least encountering one bear.

The roadtrip starts in Calgary, founded in 1875 as a police station of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police to control the whiskysmugglers in the territory of the Blackfoot indians. Nowadays the city is an important metropol for petroleum and gas transactions.  

The itinary takes me from Calgary over the Trans Canadian Highway 1 in the direction of Banff. I pass a prairie landscape and further through the Kananaskis Valley until first peaks of the Rocky Mountains appear. I stay in Banff to explore the Banff NP burt first I take a look in the town that is dominated by the majestic Fairmont Banff Springs hotel, my hub for the coming days. For 100 years it was property of the Canadian Pacific Railway who had it built. The architecture of it is a mix of a French castle and a Scottish manor.

Of course I make a ride in the Banff Gondola, a funicular to the top of Sulphur Mountain - 2286m and I admire the breathtaking views of 360° on the surrounding Rocky Mountains. Back down I go on foot through the forest for a walk of 5km.

On tour in the Banff NP I first make a stop at the Bow Falls where the Bow River makes a plunge. After a short walk along the Hoodoo trail I can see the Hoodoos, rocky needles formed by erosion. By the Indians it was believed to be the remains of their ancestors what makes them to have a enormous reverence for this rock formations. I continue my tour through a decor of majestic mountains and emerald green lakes as there are Lake Minnewanka, Johnson Lake and the Vermillion Lakes.

On my way to Lake Louise I make a though hike of 4km through the Johnston Canyon where I watch the Lower Falls and later on after a steep climb the Upper Falls. Before I reach Lake Louise I make another stop at the amazinly turquoise colored Moraine Lake surrounded by the Wenkchemna Peaks. It is already late afternoon so in a hurry I drive to Lake Louise where I check in at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, right on the shore of the lake. The weather is spoiling the nice views; it's cold, grey and moody on this Septemberday.

The next morning I start the ride to Jasper NP. I choose to drive the Icefield's Parkway described in the travel guides as one of the world's most beautiful routes. It is still grey and moody; also very cold and temperature is not more than 1°C when I leave at Lake Louise. First I pass Bow Lake, in this moody atmosphere it has something mysterious. The views on the Crowfoot Glacier are hided by the dense fog and when I pass the highest point by Bow Summit at 2137m it looks like winter is arrived. The environment is covered by a thin layer of snow and it is almost freezing. Nevertheless I park the car and go out for a short walk in the hope to get a glimpse of the photogenic Peyto Lake. Much of all beauty is spoiled by the dense fog again but I am glad the lake itself is visible in the depth and I can see clearly the fox-shape of it.

I continue my trip of today and I go on the way for Mistaya Canyon after I pass Mistaya Lake. The canyon is a wonderful creation of erosion by the Mistaya River. For years and years the river has made numerous of potholes and curves in the floor of this canyon. It must be said; driving along the Icefield's Parkway delivers a huge amount of impressive views as well as attractions. I admire the Sunwapta Falls and the Athabasca Falls; the last ones formed by the Athabasca River making a plunge in a 22m deep gorge.

Just before I reach the town of Jasper I see a herd of Wapiti deer what's making me so happy. But a few minutes later bad luck crosses my way. I park my car to check a map with hiking trails at the entrance of a nature area. And for some or another unbelievable coincidence my car locks itself. WitOh my god what now... and that in the middle of 'bear-country'. How I wish to spot a bear but not now, not here...Luckily a friendly Canadian can help me and in a sudden he calls a friend of his that can help me with specialized equipment. With a small delay I am back on my way to my accomodation for the coming nights.

Next morning I start my exploration of Jasper NP at mysterious Medicine Lake and Moose Lake. Guess what I see there ... right... a small herd of females with their calves are enjoying the bathing time. This is so great to see. The next stop is at Maligne Lake and in the Maligne Canyon I make a though hike in what is mentioned as one of the most beautiful canyons of West Canada with a difference in altitude of 55m. This day I meet again a herd of Wapiti deer but I fail in seeing bears.

I continue my itinerary and leave the province of Alberta when I drive over the Yellowhead Highway to Clearwater. I also leave now the views on the high Rocky Mountains peaks. At the time I pass Blue River I notice a billboard with some information about bear safaris in this area and I decide to take a look because until now my trials where not very succesful. I join a boatsafari followed by a jeepsafari and I see 6 bears so what a lucky day !!

After one night in Clearwater I take Highway 99 to head for Gold Bridge. Locals gave this road along numerous of fishfilled lakes the nickname fishing highway because this area is very popular for trout- and salmon fishing. The passage of Fraser Canyon delivers amazing views on Fraser River making curves in the depth. So I reach Lillooet and I start the last part of my day itinerary in the direction of Gold Bridge. For several kilometers I drive near the beautiful emeraldgreen and turquoise Carpenter Lake; a long and narrow shaped lake that is situated between Lillooet and Gold Bridge. Finally I arrive at the Tyaxx Wilderness Resort, a paradise far from civilisation and hidden deep in the impressive surrounded nature. Here I can enjoy for the coming days the Canadian way of outdoorlife. Guests can join a scala of activities and I book a horseride through the hills, kayaking on Lake Tyaughton, a naturewalk through the forest and some relax in the hot-tub. With pain in my heart I leave this nice place after a couple of days to head for Whistler.

On my way I pass again numerous of gorgeous turquoise lakes and a most lovely one is Duffey Lake, worth a photostop. But without doubt are the Joffrey Lakes one of the prettiest I saw. The hike there is a heavy one but you get something of unique scenery for your effort. After a 5min walk I reach Lower Lake. That is the easy part, from that point the path is going steeper and steeper and the heat of the day with temperatures up to 25°C  isn't making things easier. After a though climb I reach Middle Lake and the beauty is breathtaking. Imagine a deep turquoise water surrounded by peaks and the Matier Glacier. The sunny day and steel blue sky make the whole scene just photogenic. My time is limited so the climb to Upper Lake is too much and I have to start descending.  

Than I reach Whistler, in winter a ski resort and a place for the happy few with classy boutiques, hotels and restaurants. After one night I continue my road trip and drive over the Sea-to-Sky Highway to Horseshoe Bay where I am expected to embark on the ferry to Nanaimo on Vancouver Island for the last part of my Canadian adventure.

Just in time the ferry leaves the quay and between some small islands the boat finds its way to continue the journey under a sunny sky. I enjoy being on deck and watch the passing landscapes and how the skyline of Vancouver is getting smaller and blurrier.

From Nanaimo I drive to the west coast where I check-in at the Black Ocean Front Resort in Ucluelet to explore the Pacific Rim Park. Here at the wild and rainy west coast climate is typical for the creation of the coastal rainforest; a unique biotope with dense vegetation, mosscovered trees and all kinds of ferns on the floor. I make some beautiful hikes in the park. One of them is the Pacific Rim Trail, a hike of 20km, partly along the coast and sometimes through the rainforest. It is a moody day and the mysterious foggy environment adds a special atmosphere to my hike. I really enjoy all scents of the scenery, the humus smell of the humid forest and along the coast the salty sea smell. The vast beaches of Florencia Bay, Long Beach and Terrace Beach are excellent for nice beach walks. 

From Ucluelet I continue to Victoria but on my way I make another stop at Cathedral Grove to admire ancient and huge trees in a lush old-growth forest. I see a giant 800y old Douglas Fir, Red Cedar trees and much more.   But I must go further to Victoria, the capital of the province British Columbia. I walk along the Parliament Buildings situated in front of the harbour. The other side of the harbour is the location for another monumental building, the Fairmont Empress Hotel where I check in. It is a true monument of the British colonial period. After a one night stay my Vancouver Island part comes to and end and I go to Swartz Bay where I embark on the ferry to Tsawwassen in the neighbourhood of Vancouver. I end my trip with exploration of the city. On my program I have some highlights in the city worth to see. First I take a look at the Waterfront with Canada Place, also Gastown with the famous steam clock I want to see and later I rent a bike and I make a biketour through the city and Stanley Park. It is a lovely green area of 405ha and I make a stop at the well known totem poles, those remains of Indian culture were brought to this place from all over the west coast to preserve the Indian heritage for next generations. 

And so this Canadian adventure comes to an end. I cherish all memories of the majestic Rockies, the emerald and turquoise lakes, the Pacific, the though but amazing hikes, my outdoor life in Tyaxx Wilderness, my bear encounters, the contact with the warm and friendly Canadians and yes, also the hilarious moments with the key and car.

Canada stole my heart in more than one way !!