Vietnam from north to south

25 februari 2022 - Hanoi, Vietnam

End of August 2013 I traveled for the first time to Asia, more detailed to Vietnam. First goal of this trip was to visit some projects in the village of my Plan-child Diem whom I support financially for a long time; and of course meeting Diem and her family.  Plan International is a development and humanitarian organisation that advances children's rights and equality for girls. 

So my first day in Vietnam is completely reserved for this visit what costs me months of preparation and organisation but thanks to Plan-Vietnam and Plan-Belgium I even get an interpreter and transport to bring me to a small rural village 70km north of Hanoi. I visit an irrigation project, the hospital and the school, all realized with support of Plan that can count on the donations of the Plan-parents like me. Around noon school is finished and Diem and her family are ready to meet me in their home. It is a warm welcome and food is prepared to share with me as their honored guest and it feels almost like I am a queen on state visit. Of course I have some small presents for Diem, mostly school materials. At the beginning of the schoolyear she is extremely happy with all pens, crayons and notebooks. So soon time is over and we need to drive back to Hanoi if we wish to reach the city before dark.

The next day I start with a citytour and my guide shows me the highlights of Hanoi. First we stroll along the Old Quarter where daily life is full of action. I see street stalls and a mass of scents, noises and colors is hitting me. The hectic of the thousands of motorbikes is overwhelming me; never before I was in such busy and hectic town. After all impressions of Old Quarter my guide took me to the Temple of Literature, than also the Ngoc Son Temple and later on the Ethnologycal Museum. To end this walk through Hanoi I make a ride in a typical tuk-tuk. 

So regarding Hanoi I leave the hectic and the chaos to head for Lao Cai in the north of the country to discover the beautiful Sapa region which is very mountainous with some of the highest peaks of the country in the Hoang Lien mountain range. On my way to the hotel I am surprised by breathtaking views of landscapes with rice terraces. I make a 12km hike along rural mountain villages and meet the colorful clothed people of the ethnic minorities which inhabit this region. I see daily life as there are women doing laundry at mountain streams, children playing in the water, chickens in the yard, pigs lying lazy in the mud... Fully packed motorbikes with drivers who has to keep balance with loads that vary from live stock (pigs, chickens, ducks) to building materials and much more you can't imagine.

Markets are always full of daily life and very colored; so here too. I stroll around on Sapa market and discover exotic fruits and vegetables which I never saw before. But than I get an unpleasant surprise; at one or another stall where meat is sold I recognize a hunk of dogmeat. A bit horrible to me as westerner with a dog as pet at home.

In this region markets are not only trading places, they have also the function of meeting place. The day after, I visit the big local market of Cao Lac. And I meet much more of the colorful dressed Flower Hmong, Red Dao, Blue Hmong and Black Thai; all unique clothed. I take a look at the women's shelter and later at the men's shelter where both sexes enjoy food and drinks and exchange all actual news, but always separated men and women.

In the evening I take back the night train which brings me again to Hanoi for continuing my trip. Next plan is a visit to the former capital Hoa Lu where I visit the Citadel and the Imperial City. I am surprised by the beauty of the historical buildings so richly decorated and preserved. After Hoa Lu I gonna explore the environment of Ninh Binh. In a boat I sail to the three caves of Tam Coc and admire the landscapes with rice terraces and limestone karsts.

Next morning I am brought to the port to check in at the Paradise Peak for my overnight cruise in Halong Bay. Just before lunchtime we leave the quay and while I enjoy a seafood platter the boat is sailing into the bay between hundreds of limestone karsts in all shapes and sizes scattered in the emerald green water. This is really the most beautifull part of Vietnam !!

From Hanoi in the north I take a domestic flight to Danang in Central-Vietnam. I visit Hue and the Imperial Tomb, the Citadel and the Purple Forbidden City. From a boat on the Perfume River I explore the Thien Mu pagode. On the way to my beach resort my driver takes the Hai Van pass through the Blue Mountains and we make a stop at a viewpoint with magnificent panorama's on the bay of Danang, it's really amazing.   

Next day is another day to explore the rural life at the countryside. I make a biketour in the neighbourhood of Hoi An. I discover rice fields, people working in vegetables gardens, fishermen at work on the banks of the Thu Bon river and much more. In a typical basket boat I paddle in the narrow canals between mangroves and palmtrees. Here in this labyrinth of waterways much American soliers died in the Vietnam War because this was the territory of the Vietcong.

The city of Hoi An has a nice historical centre and is well known for the many tailors and workplaces for tailormade clothing, the colorful lanterns are also made here in the many workplaces. Further Hoi An has nice architecture with as most known the Japanese Bridge. Around the harbour it is cosy to stroll around, especially in the evening when all lanterns are lightened.

Until I will visit the Angkor Temples (read my Cambodja story - soon in English too) I gonna take a look at the My Son temple complex. Listed as Unesco World Heritage as well is it sometimes named as the Angkor of Vietnam. It is located in a dense valley at the feet of the Hon Quap; the holy mountain of the Cham people which inhabit this area long before the Vietnamese. The Cham were Hindoe so My Son is a Hindoe temple. Sadly the temple complex was very damaged in the Vietnam War by bombing. But who likes history and old cultures it is worth a visit !

After a domestic flight from quiet Danang I arrive again in the chaos of an Asian city, named Saigon or more officially Ho Chi Minh City in the south of the country. A first stop I make at the Bin Tay Market in the heart of China Town. This is the main market of south Vietnam and comparable with a hyper market in the West. From food over to clothes, furniture, animals and much more is sold here.

The next stop is at the War Remnant Museum dedicated to the Vietnam War. In the garden I notice a serie of American military vehicles, helicopters and airplanes. Inside the museum walls filled with photos of the horror. Photos of landscapes before and after poison gas attacks, photos of children born with deformities....all caused by harmful influences and this is going over the generations. A very emotional visit it was for sure... 

I keep digging in the war past of Vietnam and book a visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels. For this I take the speedboat that brings me 70km north of Saigon over the Saigon River into the jungle area where the tunnelcomplex is located. First there is a film where I learn how the tunnels where built and constructed. After that the visitors can descend in one  that is kind of adapted to the western body sizes. (read as : a bit higher and wider) to get an idea about living under the ground in that times. It is dark, narrow and very low. Squatting I step on as this is the only way to mover further and I am so happy when I see, literally, light at the end of the tunnel.

And with this my amazing Vietnam trip is coming to an end. It started with a mission; the visit at my Plan-child Diem and learn about her beautiful country. It was a fantastic, fascinating voyage of discovery through a country that still carries the scars of that dirty war. But what a charming people I met. I learned eating with sticks, I saw breathtaking landscapes, I visited ancient temples and met so many warm and friendly people. It was an unforgattable trip !!

Vietnam, worth a visit !!