A journey through the Kathmandu Valley

In March 2019 I went to Nepal for a journey through the Kathmandu Valley. After a long trip with a stop in Dubai I land in Kathmandu and the first day I spent on exploration of the city. The valley consists of the three ancient cities or kingdoms Kathmandu, Patan and Bhaktapur. In earlier times those were three separate city cores that merged into one large agglomeration by population growth and the run from countryside to city.

I stay at Patan en first I discover Durbar Square, it is one of the three Durbar Square in the Kathmandu Valley, each one for each ancient kingdom. In this area I notice a lot of temples, palaces and idols. I also have the opportunity to visit the Kumari of Patan. Now first of all a small explanation about what is a Kumari. The Kumari is believed to be a living godess as she is the reincarnation of the godess Taleju. The slection process is very strict and when the girl is selected she moves with her family into the House of the Kumari. She never leaves her home except for religious festivals. People come to her for blessings, she is always carried because her feet may not touch the ground. This Kumari, a 9 years old child, seems to me not very happy...

Further I visit the Swayambhu Temple also called Monkey Temple, perched on top of the Semgu Hill west of Kathmandu city. It is a nice decorated temple and the hundreds of colored prayer flags give the area a wonderful atmosphere. Swayambhu Temple temple is one of the most important religious shrines in the city of Kathmandu. I climb the 365 steps to reach the top and take in the picturesque, panoramic view of the capital city of Kathmandu. After the temple visit I go to the citycentre of Kathmandu where I take a look at the local Durbar Square to see the rich decorated temples with woodcarvings and other decorations. 

The next morning starts with what you call 'a once-in-a-lifetime experience' and for sure one of the absolute highlights of this trip; a flight above the Himalaya with destination the summit of Mount Everest. It is really breathtaking to watch the mountain landscapes as far as my eyes could reach. And than I recognize the contours of Mount Everest. A great experience and unforgettable impressions is the least I can say about this short fly trip.

From the airport I go back to town for a very emotional and overwhelming visit at the temple complex of Pashupatinath, the oldest Hindu temple of the country and considered as the Varanasi of Nepal. For Hindus it is the most prominent sacred place. It is located at the banks of sacred river Bagmati. Numerous funerals take place each day. Many believe that those cremated at Pashupatinath are guaranteed a human rebirth. 

First I take a look at the ashram where devotees spend their last days so they can die and be cremated in the temple. Than I enter the temple complex to go to the ghats where the ritual cremations are going on all day long. I can witness all rituals from body washing, the prayers and others until starting the fire and the burning of the bodies. This all is really emotional to me...

Later on that day I admire the Bodnath stupa, one of the many sites in Nepal of Unesco World Heritage. This stupa is the most important buddhist shrine of the Kathmandu Valley and since ancient times it was one of the most famous landmarks for the merchant caravans on the Silkroute. Together with the many pilgrims I step clockwise around the stupa and turn the prayer wheels. After the devotion I sit on a couch and watch locals passing and when I've rested a while I I take a look at the numerous shops filled with souvenirs and items as prayer wheels and mala's and located around the stupa.

The next morning I go out very early because it is my plan to watch the awakening of the daily life in Patan. I see women cleaning in front of their house or bringing offererings; men with a cart or a cargobike. On the market sellers prepare their stalls and display their goods.; at the temple people sit together to sing and make music.... So I see daily life is moving on.

After that morningwalk I leave the hectic and the chaos of the city and I head for the hills where I can take some meditation and get an introduction in Tibetan Buddhism. I see the daily life of the monks, participate in prayers ceremonies in the monasteries of Kopan and Pullahary and I admire the splendor of those Buddhist monasteries. It's all so interesting and enriching.

From my resort in the hills I make hikings through small rural villages where it seems time has stood still. Sadly I also soo many impact of the earthquake in 2015. So many people without a solid house, many destroyed buildings and there is lack of money to rebuild or restore all damage.

When I return from the hillside I visit the last of the three ancient kingdoms, Bhaktapur. This city is well known for its pottery and handicrafts industries but of course as well for the well preserved medieval buildings. One of the handicrafts the city is famous for is woodcarving. From the numerous ovens in the streets I can witness the production of the famous pottery. Some other handicraft produced in Bhaktapur is handshaped paper. I visit a workplace and get an introduction in the process of the making. I can take a look too in the stock room and it is lovely to see a rainbow of colors in the large stacks of paper all sorted by color.  

I end this trip in style with a last night at the Dwarika hotel, described in the travel guides as the most beautiful hotel of Nepal and I can admit. It is build in Newar style with a big patio full of cosy corners, a swimming pool, abundant flowers and plants and splashing fontains. The service is outstanding and personal as you may expect from a high class hotel.

And so this beautiful trip comes to and end. I met such warm and friendly locals. I was surprised by the courage and flexibility of the Nepalese in how they handle the impact of the earthquake that is still influencing their lives. I got a glimpse in the Nepalese way of life and in the Tibetan Buddhism. So this travel was an enriching experience to me.